New Delhi: TORA & TORY, a new Indian demi-fine jewellery label founded and creatively led by J. R. Nagrath, has made its debut with the launch of its limited inaugural collection, Gyre. The brand enters the market with a strong focus on craftsmanship, natural gemstones, and a new stone-setting technique that it describes as the T&T Cliff Set.
Positioned within India’s growing demi-fine jewellery segment, TORA & TORY is built around the idea that technique and craft should lead the design process. The brand places artisanal precision at the centre of its identity, with an emphasis on hand-led production, gemstone authenticity, and limited-edition jewellery.
The key highlight of the debut collection is the Cliff Setting, formally known as the T&T Cliff Set. According to the brand, the technique combines elements of bezel, prong, and tension settings, while being angled at approximately 30 degrees. The result is designed to make the gemstone appear as though it is emerging from the surface of the metal rather than being placed above it.
The visual effect is inspired by the image of a rock protruding from a cliff face, creating a dimensional and uninterrupted appearance. The brand said the setting required four months of trial and error, along with hand-led annealing and hardening processes, to achieve the final structure and finish.
TORA & TORY’s debut also places focus on natural gemstones. The brand uses 100% natural stones, sourced in rough form directly from mines before being cut and polished by its partners in Jaipur. The stones are selected before the designs are finalised, allowing the jewellery pieces to be built around the character, colour, and form of each gemstone.
Beyond the new setting technique, the label also draws from traditional jewellery-making methods. These include hand-push engraving, traditional hand-setting, hand-texturing, microscopic finishing standards, and the use of the Fibonacci sequence as a design ratio framework. This combination positions the brand between innovation-led design and craft preservation.
TORA & TORY plans to release only two to three collections each year, with every collection produced in limited numbers. Once a piece is sold, it will not be repeated. The brand follows an acquisition-by-selection model, where a limited number of clients are invited to collect the work each season.
With Gyre, TORA & TORY enters India’s jewellery market with a craft-led and collectible approach. The launch reflects a wider shift within the demi-fine jewellery category, where brands are focusing on authenticity, limited production, design innovation, and stronger storytelling around technique.
