Mumbai: Designer duo Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla have entered the fine jewellery category with their debut collection, ‘Iconic Jewels’, fronted by long-time friend and actor Dimple Kapadia.
The launch marks a significant extension of the designers’ creative language beyond couture, translating familiar textile, embroidery and symbolic references into gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones.
The collection is housed within a dedicated jewellery vault at Mubarak Baug, the designers’ South Mumbai flagship. Designed with faceted architectural detailing and lotus motifs, the space showcases limited-production pieces intended to retain a sense of exclusivity and craftsmanship.
Among the key lines is Abad, inspired by Gujarati Patola weaving. Crafted in 18KT gold, the collection uses Zambian emeralds, Mozambique rubies and coloured sapphires to recreate the geometric rhythm and colour blocking associated with woven silk.
The Roshnai range draws from Lucknowi Chikankari, translating the delicacy of embroidery into openwork jewellery set with brilliant-cut diamonds and natural pearls. Lace-like necklaces and pearl drops reflect the collection’s softer, more intricate design vocabulary.
Spiritual symbolism shapes the Rudra and Taweez lines, where motifs inspired by the eye of Shiva and traditional protective amulets appear across pendant necklaces and gem-set rings. Rubies, diamond pavé and central geometric forms give the pieces a stronger, talismanic identity.
The Junoon line introduces movement through dragon-scale inspired patterns, with articulated bracelets and drop earrings designed to move fluidly with the wearer.
Kapadia’s presence adds a personal layer to the campaign. Having modelled for the duo’s early Chikankari work in the 1990s, her return for their first fine jewellery collection reflects a relationship spanning more than three decades.
With ‘Iconic Jewels’, Abu Jani Sandeep Khosla are extending their established couture codes into fine jewellery, using Indian craft traditions, symbolism and colour as the foundation for a new luxury category.